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Piece of oak timber with exit holes of Death-watch beetle and
Furniture beetle
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The larvae (or grubs) of these beetles tunnel into
dead wood, including furniture and the structural timbers of buildings,
and can quickly reduce it to sawdust. Their presence often goes unnoticed
until the adult beetles emerge, leaving behind the familiar tell-tale
signs of 'worm-holes'.
The piece of oak pictured left has exit holes of
death-watch beetle (larger holes, actual diameter about 3-4 mm) and
furniture beetle (smaller holes). Similar holes are left by powder-post
beetles and several other wood-boring species.
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Death-watch beetle Xestobium rufovillosum
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Control of Domestic Wood-Boring Beetles
Since damage by wood-boring beetles nearly always has its
source in eggs laid by the female, one important method of prevention is to take
care that infested wood, particularly infested furniture, is not introduced into
the house, or if the furniture cannot be dispensed with, to take steps to
eradicate the infestation while it is still localized. Wood can be protected
from infestation and existing infestations eradicated by treatment with a
commercial wood preservative, persistent contact insecticidal fluid, or
preservative-insecticide mixture sold for 'woodworm' control. These
chemicals are made up in appropriate solvents designed to give maximum
penetration of the wood and can be applied by brushing, spraying or
pressure-injection (although the latter method usually requires the
services of a specialist pest control company). Commercial products for
household use should be available from hardware stores, garden centres
and other retail outlets that stock household and garden insecticides.
Ask your local stockist for advice on the range of approved products
available in your area or country, since this varies from place to
place.
The success of insecticide treatment depends largely on
the thoroughness with which the fluid is applied. Special attention should be
given to any rough, unpainted or unpolished surfaces, such as backs, insides
and bottoms of pieces of furniture, for these are the places where eggs are
laid. In addition to brushing or spraying the fluid over all free surfaces,
it should if possible be injected into the exit holes using a small
syringe. After treatment it is best to fill all the exit holes with wax,
or if you wish to hide the holes completely, with plaster or wood-filler
which can be stained and polished to match the wood. Filling the holes
makes it easier to detect the appearance of any fresh holes and so decide
when the infestation has ended.
The best time to apply insecticides to wood is in spring
(March-May) when the insects are near the surface of the wood, just before
they emerge, and so are more accessible to the insecticide. The life cycle
of most wood-boring beetles lasts more than one year, so that to achieve
complete eradication it is essential to repeat the treatment each year
until signs of the attack disappear. The treatment of house timbers is
usually a task for a specialist firm. Where the attack has been so severe that
the strength of timbers is affected, replacement of parts may be unavoidable.
Floorboards, panelling, etc., may have to be removed in order to treat the
under surfaces and joists. In confined areas such as roof spaces, attics or
cellars, the use of insecticide fumigation or smoke generators offer a means
of preventing re-infestation by killing the adult beetles. Consult a specialist
pest control company in dealing with any extensive problem of this kind,
especially where structural timbers may be involved.
REMEMBER TO USE INSECTICIDES SAFELY AND FOLLOW ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE PRODUCT LABEL |